Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Travel: Kennett Square,Chester County,Pa


Among the rolling hills and quaint farms found in this southeastern Pennsylvania county is the charm of Kennett Square. And I promise you this: you won't have to pay extra for the charm. The pace of neighboring U.S. Highway Route 1 may be fast and furious, but the borough slows down and takes its time, luring you in to study the details of pacifying architecture and savory agriculture.

Upon opening my car door, and before the sole of my shoe hits the pavement, I am smacked with the smell of manure ... all kinds of manure. Why does the unholy smell descend on the town like mustard gas? Because, as many know or may not know, southern Chester County is the mushroom capital of the world.

Originally named Keith's Circle by the Delaware Indians, the name changed when Walter Kennett Square invented the mushroom in a laboratory in the town's center in 1793. Using beakers, bunsen burners, test tubes, and goggles, a strange plant was born.

A letter written the same year by Square to a friend in England explains: "Ye tried the combination that we talked about on the fortnight. What resulted was a grand plant capable of imbibing and to be grown in dark, damp settings. I have become somewhat of a minor celebrity here because of it. T'is a bloody grand fungus indeed. Your friend in the Colonies, Walter."

The letter also revealed that Square was a loyalist, as he referred to America as "the Colonies," seventeen years after the Declaration of Independence was signed.

A trip to the town is not complete without a visit to the National Mushroom Museum ($135-children,$155-adults, 1 Fungus Blvd. Trust me it's worth the price).

Learn how the fungus is grown and harvest your own in minutes. Children will be entertained in "Mushroom Land," a virtual tour that takes you inside a mushroom.

Before my trip, I thought there were many different kinds of mushrooms, but I learned there is only one variety. So the museum was a bit repetitive, but highly enjoyable. Make sure to visit the display that retells the story of how Kennett Square, and not nearby Avondale (a rival mushroom town just down the road) became the greatest mushroom town on earth.

After the museum, make your way to the business district where numerous restaurants serve up the plant in a variety of ways. If you you've seen enough of the mushroom retreat to outside the town's borders, as Kennett Square laws prevent the borough's eateries from serving anything else.

Gettin' There: Flights from Philadelphia Int'l to Southern Chester County Regional Airport (12 minute flight) run about $325 rt. US Airways offers the "Mushroom Flight" on Friday evenings at a special rate of $320 rt. We recommend flying from Philadelphia and renting a car at the SCCR Airport. Make sure to mention you were on the "Mushroom Flight" at the rental car counter for even more discounts.

Where to stay: Mush Rooms, 1919 Dank St. $110/night, +free all-you-can-eat mushroom buffet daily. Hot tubs are in shape of mushrooms. Room service here claims the best mushrooms in town. Ask Jimmy at the front desk to do his drunk mushroom impression. Do not mention you were on the "Mushroom Flight."

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